How to Isolate Your Subject in Lightroom

     This article comes to us by way of http://digital-photography-school.com, and their post contributor Andrew S. Gibson. This is a wonderful outlet for offering guidance on how to recreate beautiful photos using Adobe Lightroom. 

     This tutorial is all about isolating the subject in your photo by highlighting just the subject, and darkening the remainder of the photo; it gives a very nice affect by pinpointing exactly what you want the rest of us to see.  This process comes in very handy when there is a lot going on around what you are trying to shoot.

     As it is a rather big article, with great screen shots included, I am just going to include the web link for you to watch it on your own.  Hope you enjoy and learn from this!


http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-isolate-your-subject-in-lightroom/



     I would like to say 'thank you' to fellow WPC member, Shane Skip Cooper, who posted this to facebook, where I initially saw it.

Look Inside My Crystal Ball...

Crystal Ball Photography - A Fun Challenge    

By Sarah Williams, WPC Moderator

 

In my ongoing quest to find new and interesting ways to create an interesting photographic composition, I stumbled upon crystal ball photography.  I’m sure that many of you have stumbled upon these unusual and intriguing images, and let me tell you from experience that while the photos look deceivingly difficult to capture, the technique is actually quite easy and quite fun.  Best of all, by adding this tool to your arsenal, you will once again be forced to look at the world around you with a different artistic vision, and that can do nothing but improve your skills as a photographer!

The idea is fairly simple.  You get yourself a crystal ball and you use a wide aperture (how wide will depend upon what you are going for in terms of your artistic vision) to capture the scene that is projected from your backdrop into the crystal.  It is quite amazing how tack sharp you can get the image inside of the crystal to be if you use the technique correctly.  Contrary to what you might believe, you don’t need an expensive macro lens to get a good shot using a crystal ball. I’ve gotten shots that I am incredibly happy with by using both my 70mm to 300mm telephoto lens as well as my 35mm prime lens... it’s really all about placement, background, and focus. 

 

So, here are a few general tips to get you started. 

Basic Tips for Crystal Ball Photography

1. Purchase yourself a good quality, completely clear genuine crystal ball.  They are not expensive (ranging from $10 to $50 depending on size and quality).  I recommend you start with the 80mm size because it is easy to transport and set up, but the 110mm is also a fun tool to have in the bag if you want to fill the frame a bit more. 

 

Here is a link to help you get started:

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G45GLE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004G45GLE&linkCode=as2&tag=multichoicpho-20

2. Once you have your crystal, you need only find yourself an interesting subject and set your ball up on a surface where it will not move.  Most crystals come with a small stand, which can be quite handy, but you can also set it up on a fence, wall, in the dirt, on a cup, hold it in your hand (or have someone else hold it), anywhere stable will do.  Remember, though, that the resulting picture “inside” of the crystal will be upside down, and so you will need to make the artistic choice of whether or not to flip the photo in post production or leave it in the more abstract natural form.  Because of this, choose the way that you set your crystal up carefully so that if you do decide to flip the image you won’t have a crystal hanging oddly from the top of your composition.  If you choose to hold the crystal (or have someone hold it for you), I suggest only using your thumb and index finger - the less of your hand on the ball the better the picture inside the crystal will be - and the finger placement looks fairly natural if you decide to flip the image. 
 

3. While shooting in the direct sunlight can create some really amazing shots with interesting mini sun flares, take care in making sure that you are not picking up too much glare, as this is difficult to edit out in post.  Once you’ve set up the crystal, make sure you move all the way around it while looking through your viewfinder to see what the best angle with the least glare will be - or shoot in the shade.  Also, if the crystal is in the direct sunlight for too long, it can get quite hot (learned this the hard way), so be aware - I bring along a small towel to wrap mine in for transport. 

4. Always be sure that your crystal is completely clean before you start shooting; no fingerprints, smudges, sand, dirt, etc.  These things will ruin what could otherwise be a great shot. 

5. Finally, you have to choose your focal distance and your aperture.  The wider the aperture and the farther your crystal is from background objects, the more bokeh (the visual quality of the out-of-focus areas of a photographic image, especially as rendered by a particular lens) you will get.  If you want to give the scene inside your crystal some “reference” go for a slightly narrower aperture.  Always be sure to use spot focus (single point focusing is my choice for these shots) and focus directly on the center of the crystal to get the best clarity for your “inner image”.

Hopefully this little article gets your creative juices flowing.  Remember, anything that you can do to change up your routine and try new things is great for your craft.  This type of photography may not be number one in your book, but for a relatively small investment, you can give something a try that will force you to see the world in a different way.  As a side note, a crystal ball makes for a really unusual and beautiful prop in portrait sessions.  I’d love to see some of your crystal ball shots, so be sure to post them in the comments.  Happy shooting!
 

Thank you, Sarah for great article!


And remember to check her work out at:

     sarahwilliamsphotoimpressions.com

 

 

Protecting Your Camera in Extreme Weather

How to Protect Your Camera in Extreme Weather

If you love to photograph nature, you surely know how unpredictable, and often hostile the elements can be. While we may get a sniffle or a chill from bad weather, the electronics inside our cameras are much more sensitive.

A little water, some sand, or extreme temperatures can cause your camera to temporarily malfunction or even suffer permanent damage. When the storm clouds roll in, it’s important to know how to take good care of, and protect your camera gear.

Moisture
Whether it’s full-on rain or just intense humidity, moist conditions are your camera’s number one enemy. Not only can the wetness seep into the electronic elements of cameras, flashes, lenses, and other accessories and short them out, but it can get trapped inside the casing, causing condensation and eventually mold.

To prevent this, consider purchasing a protective rain cover for your camera. You can find these in both disposable and reusable versions. In a pinch, a non-biodegradable plastic shopping bag will do the trick. Make sure all the rubber doors covering your camera’s inputs are sealed, and keep a clean, dry cloth handy to wipe away any water that condenses on the outside of the camera.

In the event that your camera does get wet inside, remove the lens and set all the affected pieces next to a warm (not too hot) radiator. Remove the battery and memory card, open all the doors and gaskets, and place the camera face up and the lens face down to allow water to evaporate through the openings. Less sensitive accessories can be placed in a bag of dry rice, which will absorb the excess moisture.

Intense Heat or Cold
Most cameras are rated to work between -10 and +40 degrees Celsius (14-104 degrees Fahrenheit). This is generally not because of the camera itself, but because of the batteries – the chemicals inside of them cease to work properly when they get too cold, or too hot.

To avoid this problem, keep an extra battery in a temperature-controlled place. If you’re shooting in the cold, keep one in your pocket to be warmed by your body heat. In the heat, your camera bag should provide adequate shade to keep a battery cool enough to function.

Never place your camera face up in direct sunlight. The lens works both ways, and can act like a magnifying glass to focus the rays into your camera and burn a hole in your shutter, and eventually, your image sensor. Remember that even magnesium-alloy cameras contain plastic components, so if you shoot in really extreme places such as near volcanoes or among raging fires, use common sense and keep your camera well clear of the flames.

Sand
Other than moisture, this is probably the most common cause of equipment malfunction. Everyone wants to take their camera to the beach (or maybe to the desert), but as anyone who has ever tried to picnic in the surf knows, sand gets anywhere, and everywhere. At best, it can become stuck inside the lens and cause spotty pictures. At worst, it will get inside the gears and severely damage moving parts such as the shutter or auto focus motor, or scratch the lens or image sensor.

This applies to compact cameras too – sand in the lens will cause it to grind and prevent it from extending, turning your little point-and-shoot into an expensive paper weight. Even tripods aren’t safe from this effect. Grains of sand inside the fastening screws can destroy the threading and keep them
from tightening properly.

Again, make sure the rubber gaskets on your camera are tightly sealed and always tuck your equipment away inside a sealed camera bag when not in use. A protective rain cover can also help keep your camera clear of debris. If sand does get on or in your gear, don’t wipe it with a cloth which can embed it deeper, or worse, scratch the glass elements. Instead, get a hand-pumped air blower to puff the grains away. Avoid compressed air canisters, which are too strong and contain chemicals that can cause damage. If you have no other option you can use your lungs, but be very careful not to project little spit particles into your camera’s insides.

Wind
A stiff breeze won’t hurt much on its own, but it can easily blow over a tripod and send your camera crashing to the ground, causing untold damage. On a windy day, anchor your gear using sandbags, or simply hang your camera bag from the tripod’s center column to weigh it down (a sack full of rocks will also work). Keep in mind that wind combined with sand creates a natural sandblaster which can scratch up your lens quite badly if you aren’t careful.

Bad weather can often make for good photographs, so get out there and make the most of it. Just make sure you are taking care of your equipment at the same time.

Thanks to David Kranak, WPC Admin for this very informational article!

Photography and the Law: Know Your Rights

Have you ever wondered about "what" and "where" you can take a photograph? You would think that if you are out walking around and you can see something plain as day, then you should be able to photograph it... right?

Well, that's pretty much true. There are, however, some 'buts' to that statement.  Steve Holland, WPC Admin, offers up this very enlightening article from photojojo.com on your rights as a photographer.

Have a look...   http://content.photojojo.com/…/legal-rights-of-photographe…/

Getting to Know Us

     Here's the first in a series I call, "Getting to Know Us". It's a brief bio about the members of World Photography Collaboration; an idea of the type of photography they specialize in, and in this case, three wonderful tips on becoming the best photographer you can be.

 

I would like to introduce you all to Sarah Williams!

 

 Sarah Williams is a California based photographer.  She shoots equine events, creative portraits and fine art photography.  Sarah works as a staff photographer for an equine publication, and she has had several gallery showings of her fine art work. Sarah is also a Moderator for World Photography Collaboration.

 

Please visit her website:   

sarahwilliamsphotoimpressions.com

  

 

 

3 Tips For Becoming a More Mindful Photographer 

 

     Once bitten by the photography bug, it can be easy to lose yourself in the details. You have to acquire the right camera, amass the proper lenses, and go out and capture everything that your eyes tell you is beautiful.  This “fire in the belly” is wonderful; it is what keeps us all going once the initial bite has worn off and we are attempting to hone our skills.  Unfortunately, in this initial lust, many of us lose that thing that makes us unique; in attempting to capture “everything”, we miss too much.
     So, if you, like me when I was starting out, are in that phase of your craft where you feel as though you’ve taken every shot possible of a glowing sunset or field of wildflowers, you’re probably ready to pull yourself back and start becoming more mindful of your art. This means taking into account all aspects of a scene, including lighting, shooting angle, creative depth of field, backgrounds and foregrounds... it means that you need to really begin thinking like a photographer.

Tip #1 Slow Down
You’ve packed up your gear, jumped in the car and rushed down to your favorite shooting spot.  The sun is beginning to set and the world is drenched in golden light.  The scene is set... it’s perfect. 
Your eyes gather all the information around you and you grab your camera.  This is the time when you need to exercise control and slow down.  Don’t become a “machine gun” shooter and attempt to capture everything around you, rather take the time to sit back and really think about your shots.  Choose a specific area with some good foreground interest and walk around it to see the way that the light hits from different angles.  Look through your lens while standing, then get down low and have another look to see how the scene has changed.  Look at every area of your photo; is there anything out of place?  Maybe a trash can or a not so attractive bit of seaweed is infringing upon your shot.  Compose and recompose, and don’t forget to work with your focus point to make sure that what you want in focus actually is in focus.  Don’t worry about the minutes ticking by, because it isn’t about how many photos you can fire off in those two wonderful hours at the close of day, but rather how many really interesting and unique scenes that you can create. 

 Tip #2 Try New Things
When I made the jump to my first real DSLR, all that I wanted to do was take magical photos of perfect landscapes.  The problem with this is that I really had no direction except for that I wanted to get good shots.  I didn’t know how light worked, or how different depths of field could impact my shots.  I didn’t understand the rule of thirds or how to use leading lines.  I ended up with a lot of photos that looked pretty flat and uninteresting, which was a little discouraging.  So, I studied everything that I could in terms of how to operate my camera, and then I stumbled upon a technique that really changed the way that I looked at things.  Instead of rushing out to catch the sunset every night, I started spending time in my neighborhood.  I walked around and really looked at things; not just full scenes, but small things like leaves and stones, or brick walkways and interesting front doors.  I began working with both wide and narrow apertures, throwing different areas of my shots in and out of focus.  I dabbled in some macro work, and then I
brought along my tripod to work on simple long exposures of street scenes.  I spent time at the park taking candid shots of strangers walking their dogs, and I worked up the nerve to walk up to people and ask if they minded spending a moment or two posing for me in
front of the camera so that I could practice my portrait techniques (you’d be surprised how well met this is by most people, by the way).  All of this trial and error did wonders for my skills as a photographer, but more importantly, it helped me to find my own style.   

 

Tip #3 Bring Your Camera...Everywhere
 Okay, so maybe you don’t need to bring your camera “everywhere”, but the idea here is that there is no way you are going to improve if you don’t actually shoot.  I’ve met so many aspiring photographers that do 90% “thinking and wanting” and only 10% shooting.  They get a few good shots and then start working on their website or trying to figure out how to make money off of their work, which are not bad things, but too many people dive into the deep end too quickly.  I have to admit, I can be faulted for a bit of this myself; I got some early success and started into the “pro scene” really quickly, and then I hit a plateau. 
My work wasn’t getting any better, and I began focusing more on a
“business” than on the nuts and bolts of my art.  The truth is that a good photographer never stops learning, so if we want to be really good we need to practice...always.  How do we practice?  We take pictures.  How do we take pictures?  By having our camera with
us.  Iron this into your brain; repeat it over and over if you have to. The point to figuring out a way to bring your camera with you as often as possible is that it will keep you thinking like a photographer throughout the day.  You may find yourself at the gas station and suddenly the way that the light is hitting the gas pump will jump out at you, and because you have your camera, you will be able take a moment or two and play with this idea that is in your head.  The more often that you think like a photographer, the easier it will become to figure out how you want to capture a scene... things like leading lines and creative focal points will start to jump out at you. You will see the world differently. 
    
     Hopefully these little tips will help you as you continue your journey of becoming a photographer.  Remember, you have your own unique vision and style hiding someplace inside, and these are the things that will set you apart from the millions of other people who also “take pictures”.  No one can be you, and the world needs to see what you have to offer.

Tips and Techniques for Shooting Waterfalls

Everyone loves the look of a smooth flowing waterfall, don't they? Well, thanks to our friends over at www.picturecorrect.com, here's a great link to get you on your way to beautiful water shots!

http://www.picturecorrect.com/…/waterfall-photography-tips…/




Also want to give a shout out to Shane Skip Cooper, one of our Editors at WPC for sharing this with me!

Black & White or Color?

A lot of people have a preference when it comes to black and white photos over color.  But I say... why not both?

Now that digital photography gives us such instant gratification, you can see your photos as you shoot them. But where I have the most fun is in the post-processing. I, personally, use Lightroom, by Adobe. It's so user-friendly that even I can figure it out.

Here's two examples of the same photo I took while in Portland, OR last month. Which one do you prefer?  All I had to do was to click black & white to change the entire look of this photo. Each one has its own distinct feel to it, and I like them both!